What information should I have on hand when I make a report of animal cruelty?

Try to gather the following information before submitting a report of animal cruelty:

A concise, written, factual statement of what you observed—giving dates and approximate times whenever possible—to provide to law enforcement.

Photographs of the location, the animals in question and the surrounding area. However, please do not put yourself in danger! Do not enter another person’s property without permission, and exercise great caution around unfamiliar animals who may be frightened or in pain.

If you can, provide law enforcement with the names and contact information of other people who have firsthand information about the abusive situation.

Remember, never give away a document without making a copy for yourself!

 
Can I remain anonymous when I file a complaint about animal cruelty?

Yes, you can, and it is better to file an anonymous report than to do nothing—but please consider providing your information to the agency taking the complaint. These agencies have limited resources, and the case is more likely to be pursued when there are credible witnesses willing to stand behind the report and, if necessary, testify in court about what they may have witnessed.

 
If I report my suspicions that a neighbor is committing animal cruelty, and that person’s animal is taken away and put in a shelter, isn’t the animal worse off?

It’s important to understand that reporting cruelty is always the right thing to do. Because of the burden it places on the system, animal control officers do not want to remove an animal from a home unless absolutely necessary. If an animal is taken from his or her owner, there was a substantial problem. A seized animal will have the chance to get the necessary help, whether that help is nutritional, medical or behavioral. Also, if an intervention by law enforcement leads to a conviction, you may inadvertently have helped spare other animals from the same abuse: in many states, convicted animal abusers are barred from owning pets.

 
Is there anything specific I can say when I make a report of animal cruelty to persuade law enforcement to take it seriously?

Yes—let them know that you are taking the incident seriously. Make it clear that you are very interested in pursuing the case and that you are willing to lend assistance however you can. Although law enforcement agencies must pay attention to anonymous reports of serious crimes, including animal cruelty, they are more likely to follow up on cases where there are credible witnesses willing to stand behind the report and, if necessary, testify in court about what they may have witnessed.

Provide law enforcement with a concise, written statement of what you observed, giving dates and approximate times whenever possible. If you can do so without entering another person’s property without their permission, you may wish to photograph the location, the animals and the surrounding area. If you can, provide law enforcement with the names and contact information for other people who have firsthand information about the situation.

How should I follow up on my report of animal cruelty?

When you report animal cruelty, it’s a good idea to keep a careful record of exactly whom you contacted, the date of the contacts, copies of any documents you provided to law enforcement or animal control, and the content and outcome of your discussion. This will make following up much easier.

Heatstroke is a deadly condition that can kill your beloved canine companion, even with emergency treatment. As with most health issues, prevention is the key to helping your dog through hot summer days.

Heat, humidity and other factors that can kill
Most people know that the interior of a car on a hot summer’s day can be lethal. However, your dog needs you to know more than that to keep him safe in the deadly sun. Even on cooler days, the temperature inside an automobile can rise quickly as a result of direct sunlight.

Days when the temperature rises to 90 degrees or higher, especially with high humidity, are especially hazardous for your pet. Humidity interferes with animals’ ability to rid themselves of excess body heat. When humans overheat, we sweat. The process of the sweat drying carries excess heat with it. However, dogs only perspire around their paws, which is not enough to cool the body on hot days.

Your Dog’s Cooling System
To rid themselves of excess heat, dogs pant. You may notice that a hot, panting dog has an enlarged tongue. This occurs so that the tongue has an increased surface area to dissipate heat.

When panting, air moves through the nasal passages picking up excess heat from the body. As it is exhaled through the mouth the extra heat is carried along with it. Although this is a normally efficient way to control body heat, it can be severely overtaxed during periods of high humidity or when the animal is in close quarters.

The shape of a dog’s nose can affect the ability to regulate heat. Brachiocephalic (pug-nosed) dogs are more susceptible to heatstroke since their nasal passages are smaller. As a result of this smaller surface area, their  panting is less efficient for cooling. Overweight dogs are also more prone to overheating as extra layers of fat act as insulation, which traps heat in their bodies and restricts their breathing capabilities. Age can also be a factor in an animal’s tendency to overheat–very young puppies may not have a fully developed temperature regulating system while older pets’ organ systems may not be functioning at 100 percent, making them prone to heat-related damage.

Cracking the windows is simply not enough!
So where are the danger zones? The most obvious is your car. It can become a death trap even on a mild sunny day when the sun’s rays can raise the car’s temperature to well above 120 degrees. Never, ever leave your pet inside the car. If your dog can’t come with you when you get out of the car, then leave him at home.

Leaving dogs outdoors without shelter from the sun is just as dangerous as leaving them inside a hot car. Be sure they are not left in a cage in the hot sun, on a chain in the yard, or outdoors in a run without sufficient shade or air circulation.

Symptoms of Heatstroke
Symptoms of heatstroke include rapid panting, bright red gums, an elevated heart rate, warm dry skin, vomiting and a vacant or anxious expression.

beagle panting

Act Decisively as Heatstroke can be deadly!
Heatstroke is a true medical emergency – if not properly and quickly treated the condition can quickly result in coma and death. Have someone call a veterinarian immediately. An animal with heat stroke must have its body temperature lowered quickly. Most effective is immediate immersion in cold water. If unavailable, hosing the dog down with a garden hose may be effective. Ice packs should not be used because overcooling may occur.

The skin should be massaged gently, and the legs flexed frequently to encourage blood circulation. While this is being done, it is essential that the pet be transported to a veterinary hospital as quickly as possible. Often the pet will respond after only a few minutes of cooling, only to falter again. Once your pet is in a veterinarian’s care, treatment may include further cooling techniques, intravenous fluid therapy to counter shock, or medication to treat possible brain damage.

An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure
If your dog lives outdoors, ensure adequate shelter from sun/midday heat. Outdoor kennels should be well-ventilated and in the shade. Provide plenty of fresh water in a bowl that cannot be tipped over and check/refill regularly. Avoid excessive exercise on hot days. If your dog’s coat is long or thick, discuss with your veterinarian if grooming should include a shorter haircut.

Dogs walk faster than humans can. Naturally, if you put them on a leash, they’ll start pulling to get to whatever they’re looking at faster. A dog, having what is called an opposition reflex, would lean on a pressure it feels on its neck and chest. Understanding this makes it clear that if you want to have a leisurely walk with your dog on a leash, you must begin dog leash training while your pet is still a few weeks-old puppy.

Begin by allowing your dog time to get used to the collar around his neck. When you put it on for the first time, your puppy will scratch, roll around or try to get it off. Make sure you fasten the collar securely and don’t remove it when the dog is trying to. When he finally calmed down and shows signs of being comfortable with it, you can remove the collar for a short while. This teaches the dog two important things: first, that the collar won’t come off when he wants it so he’d best get used to it and second, the collar is not a permanent attachment. Check the collar regularly to make sure it isn’t too tight. Your dog grows in size and you need to adjust the collar regularly.

When the dog is ready, attach a leash to the collar and allow the dog time to adjust to the leash. Allot a few minutes every day to for leash training with your puppy and have some treats handy. Your goal is to be able to walk around with your dog on a leash without him pulling at the other end. This means you should be able to stand still with your dog and walk around at your pace, not his.

To get started, fasten the collar securely around your pup’s neck and attach the leash. Hold the other end securely. Try and have the dog stand still beside you. When he starts to wander too far and pulls on the leash, call the dog back to your side and reward him with a treat when he does. When he finally is able to stand still beside you for the time you wish to, you can begin walking him around. When he wanders too far to the point of pulling on the leash, call him back to your side. Pull on the leash if needed. When the dog returns to a comfortable distance – walks beside you without pulling on the leash, reward him with a treat.

Do these training exercises with a reward system for several days or weeks or until your dog learns to consistently respect the leash. When your dog is finally able to stand still beside you or walk around your house or backyard with a loose leash, reward your dog with a lot of praise, hugs or pats and some treats. He is ready to be taken out for a walk.

Remember that to condition your dog to respect the leash, focus on allowing your dog to progress forward when the leash is loose. If you allow your pet to proceed forward when the leash is tight, you’re teaching him to pull.

Pet Article courtesy of http://pet-articles.blogspot.com.

Oh, the trials and tribulations of having a dog! Do any of these sound familiar?

Scenario No. 1:  It’s 5:15 AM, you are sound asleep and content in the knowledge that you can sleep in this morning. Suddenly there’s a whimpering sound next to you. You roll over and try to ignore the sound but it continues, unabated. Suddenly, you are struck on the shoulder by a huge paw. You open your eyes and see your German Shepherd, Maxie, looking at you with her soulful eyes. Maxie needs to go out! You consider the options:

a.) get up and let her go outside  or
b.) hope that you only have to clean up the kitchen floor since it’s vinyl, not carpet.
You make your decision, stumble out of bed, stub your toe on the bedframe, hobble to the back door, open it, and Maxie finally gets her relief.

Scenario No. 2: You are watching the Big Game on TV when Maxie lets you know that she wants to go outside. You walk to the back door, let her out, close the door and return to the TV to find that you missed your team’s incredible rally to take the lead. You settle in, disappointed but still happy that the game is going well. Suddenly, Maxie is barking and scratching at the back door. She wants back in. You get up, go to the door, let her in and return to the TV. Guess what? Your team is now losing. You missed the big play that gave the other team the lead. You mutter under your breath, glare at Maxie, and notice that Maxie seems to be laughing at you.

Scenario No. 3: The final episode of your favorite TV series will be on tonight. You simply can’t miss even a second of the thrilling conclusion to the season. Remembering the problems you encountered trying to watch the Big Game, you decide to leave the back door open so that Maxie can come and go as she pleases. You happily watch your show, uninterrupted for the full hour.  When it’s over you head for the back door and – yikes!  - a cloud of mosquitos, moths, and other indescribable flying insects are swarming around the overhead light fixture. You look at Maxie and could swear that she’s laughing at you again.

Dog Doors Can Be Quite Handy

You’ve had enough and decide to look into the possibilities of installing a dog door.

The Benefits of a Dog Door
With the addition of a simple flap installed in your back door, your dog will be free to come and go from your house. You will no longer have to wake up before dawn to let your howling dog out. Whenever nature calls, your dog will be able to use your dog door to get to your backyard without having to interrupt you. And, although it is not a substitute for walks and games of fetch, allowing your dog to go outside when it wants to run around will help your dog get at least some exercise.

The Problem with Manual Dog Doors
Unfortunately, there can be problems with dog doors. A manual dog door, with a simple plastic flap installed in a wall or door at ground level, can result in a host of problems. Although your dog would have the freedom to come and go, the dog door could also be opening your house up to anything else that can fit through it. Stray dogs and cats have been known to wander into houses through the open flap. Also, if you have a large dog, the hole may be big enough for a burglar to use it to gain entry to your house.

Magnetic or Electronic Dog Doors
Getting a  magnetic or electronic dog door can resolve many of the problems you may encounter with a simple entry flap. With an electronic dog door, the door remains securely closed until an infrared key attached to your dog’s collar opens it. Likewise, a strong magnet attached to your dog’s collar can  unlatch a magnetic door. Although these advanced designs are more expensive, an electronic or magnetic dog door will help ensure that it is only your dog that is entering your home. Indeed, some electronic dog doors may even be connected to a home security system.

Before you Buy a Dog Door…
No matter what type of dog door you decide to install in your home, you should consider the following:
*  For security purposes, you should look for a dog door that can be securely locked. If you already have one that cannot be properly locked, you may be able purchase a solid pane that can drop into place over the hole when you and your dog are going to be away from home.
*  Also keep in mind your local climate and the potential exchange of cold and warm air through the hole in your door or wall. If you live in a moderate climate where you do not have to heat or cool your home often, then this will not be a major concern. Otherwise, you should ensure that your dog door is properly insulated. This requires buying a heavier duty dog door that is insulated and seals completely when closed.

A properly selected dog door won’t resolve all of your dog-related trials and tribulations. However, it will enable you to resign from your part-time job as a doorman. Loss of that job is no great loss since Maxie didn’t tip very well anyway.

Petsmart has a variety of different styles of dog doors. Please click here to check them out.

RadioFence.com also has a nice selection of quality dog doors. Please click here to see their offerings. 

Periodontal Disease can affect your pet’s health and can even be life threatening. Dr. Lauren has a few things you can do to keep your mouth healthy.

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Today’s post deals with another of the most common problems surrounding the issue of house training: scent marking.

The scent marking problem is most prevalent with a dog who is male, unneutered, and at least five or six months old. Unneutered dogs are much more territorial than neutered ones so they are also more likely to practice scent marking.  If you have an unneutered dog in the house, you can pretty much expect a certain amount of scent marking. (Unspayed females also mark, but it’s less common; spayed and neutered dogs can also exhibit marking behavior, but it’s relatively infrequent)

Scent Marking

Scent marking – where a dog “marks” his or her territory with urine – is technically not actually a house training problem, since it’s based on issues of dominance and territoriality rather than insufficient house training (a dog can be perfectly house trained but still mark inside the house.)

However, since the problem centers around the unwanted presence of urine in the house, it seems logical, in a way, to link this problem with house training. Since this is one of the most widespread problems among dog owners, we thought it worthwhile to include some practical advice.
Scent MarkingScent marking and lack of house training: how to differentiate between the two

Your dog’s probably scent marking, rather than genuinely relieving himself, if:

- The amount of urine produced is relatively small, and tends to be directed against vertical surfaces (walls, doors, etc)

- It makes little difference how often he’s taken outside for a toilet break

- He frequently targets items that are new to the house: new possessions, guest clothing/footwear, etc

- You live in a multi-dog household and there is conflict between two or more of the dogs

- There are other, unneutered or unspayed pets in the house

What to do about the problem?

First things first: spay or neuter your dog(s) as soon as you possibly can. If you can do this early enough – ideally, at six months of age – this often halts marking altogether; but if your dog’s been marking for a prolonged period of time, he or she may continue to do so after being spayed or neutered, since a pattern of behavior will have been established.

Clean soiled areas thoroughly. Use a non-ammonia based cleaner (because it smells just like pee) and stay away from vinegar too (it smells similar to pee.) Oxi-Clean mixed with warm water is particularly effective; there are also plenty of commercial cleaners designed specifically to lift pet stains and odors, which you can buy from pet stores and some supermarkets.

Because dogs tend to re-mark the same places, you’ll need to redefine the places that you know he’s marked to prevent repeat offending.

You can do this in a number of ways:

- Feed him next to or on top of the spot
- Play with him there
- Groom him there
- Put his bed over or next to it
- Spend time there yourself: hang out with a book or sit down and work

If there is rivalry between dogs in the household, you’ll need to take steps to resolve it. Any conflict is likely to be hierarchical in nature (a “power struggle”), which means that all you have to do to stop the tension is pay attention to which dog seems to be more dominant than the other one (which one eats first, gets the toys he/she wants, “stares down” another dog), and reinforce this position.

How to do this: feed the dominant dog first. Pet him/her first. Give him/her a toy before anyone else gets one. This makes it clear to all dogs in the house which one really is the dominant dog – and when this hierarchy’s been recognizably established, territorial/dominant behaviors like scent marking often vanish overnight.

For more information on how to successfully house train your dog (as well as a whole bunch of in-depth information on house training troubleshooting and related issues) you’ll probably want to check out The Ultimate House Training Guide.

It’s the complete dog-house-training guide. The Ultimate House Training Guide and comes highly recommended.

You can visit the The Ultimate House Training Guide site by clicking this link:
http://bit.ly/dogburg