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By Mike Jones, August 5, 2011

Most dogs really enjoy digging around in soft dirt. You want to have a beautiful yard and a nice garden and your dog comes along and ruins it all. It is a big disaster that you can hardly keep up with. You want a nice yard but your dog wants to have fun digging around. What is the best way to handle this problem?

Dogs are natural-born diggers. Some breeds are actually bred to dig out certain prey so this digging conduct is instinctual for them. If your dog is a natural digger it may be more challenging but there are some things you can do to contain the digging.

It is important for your dog to engage his curiosity, learn about and explore his surroundings. But most people want a nice yard too. You must contain his digging or even stop it entirely if you want to keep your yard beautiful.

Digging Dog

Dogs sometimes dig because they are bored. They need entertainment. He may be experiencing separation anxiety because you are away. Maybe he is trying to dig out an escape route so he can leave the yard. He may even be digging for something as simple as controlling his own temperature. He may be too hot and trying to cool off or he may be too cold and trying to warm-up.

You can get your dog to reduce or even stop his digging patterns. First make sure that he has enough time with you and gets enough exercise and playtime. You can also make sure that he has toys that he enjoys. Frequently dogs will try to bury bones so if you give your dog bones to chew on make sure you replace them with chew toys or rawhide bones.

You can also try clicker training to prevent digging. Anytime you see your dog in the act of digging use the clicker and a command that tells him “no”. Reward him when he stops digging. You will need to be consistent but clicker training can work.

You can also try to fill his hole up with undesirable things. You can fill the hole that he has been playing in with garden mulch, sticks, pine needles and so forth. When he comes back he will dig and find the undesirable things in his hole and he will stop digging. You can also bury a balloon that will pop in his face as he digs. This will not hurt him but it will scare him and he may stop the digging. Some trainers also recommend putting dog poop into the holes as the dog will no longer want to play after he finds his own poop!

You can try to make a spot in your yard specifically for his digging. This will take the most time and patience but it may be the best solution if your dog is just a natural digger. You can reduce your dogs digging behavior with some time and patience but be gentle because he is just being a dog.

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By jnavary, July 22, 2011

Dogs walk faster than humans can. Naturally, if you put them on a leash, they’ll start pulling to get to whatever they’re looking at faster. A dog, having what is called an opposition reflex, would lean on a pressure it feels on its neck and chest. Understanding this makes it clear that if you want to have a leisurely walk with your dog on a leash, you must begin dog leash training while your pet is still a few weeks-old puppy.

Begin by allowing your dog time to get used to the collar around his neck. When you put it on for the first time, your puppy will scratch, roll around or try to get it off. Make sure you fasten the collar securely and don’t remove it when the dog is trying to. When he finally calmed down and shows signs of being comfortable with it, you can remove the collar for a short while. This teaches the dog two important things: first, that the collar won’t come off when he wants it so he’d best get used to it and second, the collar is not a permanent attachment. Check the collar regularly to make sure it isn’t too tight. Your dog grows in size and you need to adjust the collar regularly.

When the dog is ready, attach a leash to the collar and allow the dog time to adjust to the leash. Allot a few minutes every day to for leash training with your puppy and have some treats handy. Your goal is to be able to walk around with your dog on a leash without him pulling at the other end. This means you should be able to stand still with your dog and walk around at your pace, not his.

To get started, fasten the collar securely around your pup’s neck and attach the leash. Hold the other end securely. Try and have the dog stand still beside you. When he starts to wander too far and pulls on the leash, call the dog back to your side and reward him with a treat when he does. When he finally is able to stand still beside you for the time you wish to, you can begin walking him around. When he wanders too far to the point of pulling on the leash, call him back to your side. Pull on the leash if needed. When the dog returns to a comfortable distance – walks beside you without pulling on the leash, reward him with a treat.

Do these training exercises with a reward system for several days or weeks or until your dog learns to consistently respect the leash. When your dog is finally able to stand still beside you or walk around your house or backyard with a loose leash, reward your dog with a lot of praise, hugs or pats and some treats. He is ready to be taken out for a walk.

Remember that to condition your dog to respect the leash, focus on allowing your dog to progress forward when the leash is loose. If you allow your pet to proceed forward when the leash is tight, you’re teaching him to pull.

Pet Article courtesy of http://pet-articles.blogspot.com.

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By jnavary, July 3, 2011

Today’s post deals with another of the most common problems surrounding the issue of house training: scent marking.

The scent marking problem is most prevalent with a dog who is male, unneutered, and at least five or six months old. Unneutered dogs are much more territorial than neutered ones so they are also more likely to practice scent marking.  If you have an unneutered dog in the house, you can pretty much expect a certain amount of scent marking. (Unspayed females also mark, but it’s less common; spayed and neutered dogs can also exhibit marking behavior, but it’s relatively infrequent)

Scent Marking

Scent marking – where a dog “marks” his or her territory with urine – is technically not actually a house training problem, since it’s based on issues of dominance and territoriality rather than insufficient house training (a dog can be perfectly house trained but still mark inside the house.)

However, since the problem centers around the unwanted presence of urine in the house, it seems logical, in a way, to link this problem with house training. Since this is one of the most widespread problems among dog owners, we thought it worthwhile to include some practical advice.
Scent MarkingScent marking and lack of house training: how to differentiate between the two

Your dog’s probably scent marking, rather than genuinely relieving himself, if:

- The amount of urine produced is relatively small, and tends to be directed against vertical surfaces (walls, doors, etc)

- It makes little difference how often he’s taken outside for a toilet break

- He frequently targets items that are new to the house: new possessions, guest clothing/footwear, etc

- You live in a multi-dog household and there is conflict between two or more of the dogs

- There are other, unneutered or unspayed pets in the house

What to do about the problem?

First things first: spay or neuter your dog(s) as soon as you possibly can. If you can do this early enough – ideally, at six months of age – this often halts marking altogether; but if your dog’s been marking for a prolonged period of time, he or she may continue to do so after being spayed or neutered, since a pattern of behavior will have been established.

Clean soiled areas thoroughly. Use a non-ammonia based cleaner (because it smells just like pee) and stay away from vinegar too (it smells similar to pee.) Oxi-Clean mixed with warm water is particularly effective; there are also plenty of commercial cleaners designed specifically to lift pet stains and odors, which you can buy from pet stores and some supermarkets.

Because dogs tend to re-mark the same places, you’ll need to redefine the places that you know he’s marked to prevent repeat offending.

You can do this in a number of ways:

- Feed him next to or on top of the spot
- Play with him there
- Groom him there
- Put his bed over or next to it
- Spend time there yourself: hang out with a book or sit down and work

If there is rivalry between dogs in the household, you’ll need to take steps to resolve it. Any conflict is likely to be hierarchical in nature (a “power struggle”), which means that all you have to do to stop the tension is pay attention to which dog seems to be more dominant than the other one (which one eats first, gets the toys he/she wants, “stares down” another dog), and reinforce this position.

How to do this: feed the dominant dog first. Pet him/her first. Give him/her a toy before anyone else gets one. This makes it clear to all dogs in the house which one really is the dominant dog – and when this hierarchy’s been recognizably established, territorial/dominant behaviors like scent marking often vanish overnight.

For more information on how to successfully house train your dog (as well as a whole bunch of in-depth information on house training troubleshooting and related issues) you’ll probably want to check out The Ultimate House Training Guide.

It’s the complete dog-house-training guide. The Ultimate House Training Guide and comes highly recommended.

You can visit the The Ultimate House Training Guide site by clicking this link:
http://bit.ly/dogburg

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By jnavary, June 18, 2011

by John Williams

Hundreds if not thousands of stray dogs are found each year around the world with no one in sight and nowhere to go. These dogs are often in great danger whether it’s because of neglect on the owners’ behalf, or because of unforeseen circumstances causing the dog to become lost and scared.

What can be done in these situations can be a tricky choice, and a choice that will need to be done quickly. Simply driving past a suspected stray dog on the side of the road could end in the death of the dog minutes later.

What to do when you find a stray dog is different in almost every case, but there are guidelines to follow to help save the life of a scared stray, and put the mind of the loving owner at ease.

Helping Stray Dogs

To begin you should always be aware that the dog in question may be very aggressive due to being scared, lost, and possibly very hungry, so approach with care. If you feel the dog is not a violent one then you should still be very careful not to startle or scare the dog in any way, a scared dog could easily run onto a busy road or dangerous area.

A good way to reassure the dog you are not there to harm them and to get them close is to use a strong smelling food such as tuna or other dog favourites as well as speaking gently and calmly to the dog.

When you finally get the dog under control and have no fears of aggressive behavior, reassuring the dog by stroking and talking to them will make it easier for others to deal with them. If you have leash or any other form of dog control with you then try and secure the dog with them, still being careful not to scare the dog.

When you have successfully captured the dog or if you have had other problems making it difficult to capture then you should phone for help from the local animal care or control authority to ensue the correct procedures are met and the safety of the animal will be secure.

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