Most dogs really enjoy digging around in soft dirt. You want to have a beautiful yard and a nice garden and your dog comes along and ruins it all. It is a big disaster that you can hardly keep up with. You want a nice yard but your dog wants to have fun digging around. What is the best way to handle this problem?

Dogs are natural-born diggers. Some breeds are actually bred to dig out certain prey so this digging conduct is instinctual for them. If your dog is a natural digger it may be more challenging but there are some things you can do to contain the digging.

It is important for your dog to engage his curiosity, learn about and explore his surroundings. But most people want a nice yard too. You must contain his digging or even stop it entirely if you want to keep your yard beautiful.

Digging Dog

Dogs sometimes dig because they are bored. They need entertainment. He may be experiencing separation anxiety because you are away. Maybe he is trying to dig out an escape route so he can leave the yard. He may even be digging for something as simple as controlling his own temperature. He may be too hot and trying to cool off or he may be too cold and trying to warm-up.

You can get your dog to reduce or even stop his digging patterns. First make sure that he has enough time with you and gets enough exercise and playtime. You can also make sure that he has toys that he enjoys. Frequently dogs will try to bury bones so if you give your dog bones to chew on make sure you replace them with chew toys or rawhide bones.

You can also try clicker training to prevent digging. Anytime you see your dog in the act of digging use the clicker and a command that tells him “no”. Reward him when he stops digging. You will need to be consistent but clicker training can work.

You can also try to fill his hole up with undesirable things. You can fill the hole that he has been playing in with garden mulch, sticks, pine needles and so forth. When he comes back he will dig and find the undesirable things in his hole and he will stop digging. You can also bury a balloon that will pop in his face as he digs. This will not hurt him but it will scare him and he may stop the digging. Some trainers also recommend putting dog poop into the holes as the dog will no longer want to play after he finds his own poop!

You can try to make a spot in your yard specifically for his digging. This will take the most time and patience but it may be the best solution if your dog is just a natural digger. You can reduce your dogs digging behavior with some time and patience but be gentle because he is just being a dog.

House training is one of the areas of dog ownership that’s most subject to misunderstanding, confusion, and just plain dread!

Today’s post deals with one of the most common problems surrounding the issue of house training: submissive/excited urination

What is it?

A ‘submissive urinator’ is a dog that urinates on the floor and himself (and sometimes on you and any guests you may have!) in situations of extreme excitement or stress – like when you return home at the end of the day, or when he’s being told off.

Why does it happen?

Puppies are the usual candidates for submissive/excited urination, but it’s not uncommon to see adult dogs with the problem as well: usually, these are highly sensitive and timid dogs, and/or ones from a shelter/with a history of abuse (often these last two go hand-in-hand.)

When does it happen?

Wet Puppies Are Still Fun!

Situations when an excited/fearful dog is likely to urinate:
- Greeting time after a prolonged absence- Play time
- The arrival of guests
- Stressful situations at home, eg arguments
- During a correction (you’re telling him off)
- Sudden loud noises (thunder, fireworks)

What can I do about it?

Fortunately, it’s not difficult to “cure” your dog of his submissive/excited urination.

First of all, you should take him to the vet to make sure there’s no medical reason for the issue (like diabetes or a bladder infection.)

Next, it’s time to take control of the problem:

- Limit his intake of water to help him control his bladder more effectively. Don’t restrict his water intake over a prolonged period of time, but if you know there’s a situation coming which would normally result in urination – for example, you have guests coming over, or are planning on a play session soon – take his water bowl away for a period of time (maybe half an hour to an hour) before the event.

- When greeting your dog, keep it calm and mellow. The more excited he is, the harder it is for him to control his bladder, so don’t encourage him to get worked up: ignore him for the first few moments, or give him a neutral “hello”, a quick pat, and then go about making yourself at home.

- It’s important that you DO NOT punish or harshly correct your dog for this behavior. It’s not something that he can easily control, and he’s certainly not doing it on purpose. When you catch him in the act, you can interrupt him (a firm “No!” followed by praise when he stops should suffice) but don’t punish him. Keep your cool, and try to be sympathetic: he doesn’t mean to do it, after all!

- If he urinates out of fear (submissiveness) when scolding him for another offense, try to take the stress levels down a notch by keeping a firm, authoritative, but not angry tone. Remember, you’re dealing with a sensitive, highly-strung dog: if you get angry or worry him further, the problem will worsen.

For more information on how to successfully house train your dog (as well as a whole bunch of in-depth information on house training troubleshooting and related issues) you’ll probably want to check out The Ultimate House Training Guide.

It’s the complete dog-house-training guide. The Ultimate House Training Guide and comes highly recommended.

You can visit the The Ultimate House Training Guide site by clicking this link:

http://bit.ly/dogburg

TOMORROW: Common House Training Problems – Part Two

“When is a puppy fully grown?”

That question is probably not foremost in your thoughts when you bring a new puppy into your life. That adorable little face, those huge soulful eyes, and that cute wiggle when he walks are what come to mind when thinking about your new pup. But gradually, as your puppy gets older and perhaps a bit destructive, you may find yourself wishing that he would grow out of some of those youthful traits and begin acting more like an adult dog.  By the time he’s chewed your third pair of shoes you will probably begin to wonder…

“When will this puppy be fully grown?”

Happiness is a warm puppy -- Charles Schulz

Although there are some similarities between early development stages of puppies and human babies, the process is considerably quicker for canines.

Newborn puppies go through many changes during their first three weeks .  They open their eyes, take their first steps, and begin to act like a tiny dog. During this early stage they are not really aware of the world beyond  ”mom”  and siblings.

Somewhere between the third and fourth week your puppy’s senses of sight, smell, and hearing rapidly develop. All of a sudden he’ll discover that there is more to his world than just his canine family. His relationship with his new human family begins to take shape. This is a critical time for the development of your puppy’s personality and behavioral traits. Take care to avoid stressful or traumatic experiences as they may significantly influence how your dog will behave as an adult.

Your puppy will begin learning proper pack “etiquette” during the fifth through seventh weeks. If he begins to bite inappropriately or play too rough, his mother will correct him. These early lessons provide some of the social skills he will need as he interacts with humans and other dogs.

For the first three months of his life your puppy will experience many new things. Whenever possible, try to make these learning experiences positive. In doing so you are much more likely to avoid behavioral problems as he enters adulthood.

After three months or so your puppy enters a “toddler” stage of development. He gains more independence and tries to explore his world as he sees fit, not at the prompting of his mother or his human family. Shoes, furniture, books, and just about anything within reach will fascinate him. He will also learn what they taste like as he begins teething. This is a good time to begin very basic obedience training and establish your role as pack leader.

Your puppy will reach adolescence at around six to eight months, well on his way toward adulthood. Although the transition from adolescent to adult varies, depending upon the breed (or mix of breeds), you can be pretty sure that he has reached adulthood by the time his second birthday rolls around.

That’s when a puppy is fully grown.

by Jim Navary

So, you’ve finally made the decision that you want to adopt a canine pal. That’s great news! But first you must decide if your new best friend will be an adult dog or a puppy.

I'm cute - but high maintenance

Without a doubt it can be a real joy having a rambunctious puppy in the house, watching him or her grow. However, adopting a pup really requires a major time commitment. Initially, it can take a couple of weeks for both you and your puppy to adjust to your new living arrangements. Be aware that it could result in a few sleepless nights for both of you. Also, new puppies must be very closely supervised and properly taught what is and is not acceptable behavior. Then there’s housetraining. In many cases this can be a taxing time with numerous “accidents” to clean up. Patience, while housetraining a pup, is indeed a virtue. Also, it may take six to eight months for your puppy to outgrow his chewing phase and another 12 months to attain full maturity.

When determining whether or not a puppy will fit your lifestyle you really must make a completely honest assessment of your ability, and willingness, to deal with the challenges that the youngster will present. If you conclude that it’s not realistic for you to care for a puppy, then an adult dog can be an excellent choice.

Many adult dogs have already been housetrained. You’ll likely still have a few accidents but it won’t take long for the adult dog to learn your rules. Adult dogs are easier to train as they have longer attention spans than excitable puppies. In fact, you may find that they have already learned some basic commands from their previous owners. Choosing an adult dog, you will already be aware of its full size, true personality, and health. As puppies develop, one or more of these traits may end up being a big surprise. An adult dog may be a better choice if you have young children. Older dogs may have already had experience with children and they are much more predictable than puppies. Playing with a new puppy you’ll soon discover that they have needle-sharp teeth that can accidentally injure a young child.

You might also want to consider adopting a canine “senior citizen”. Even nine or ten year old dogs can still have many more good years to offer to a loving family. All too many older dogs in shelters are unable to find a new “forever” home, resulting in a tragic, untimely demise.

Consider adopting an older dog

When choosing between an adult dog or a new puppy, try to consider every aspect of your pet’s, and your own, needs. Adopting a dog should be great fun, but it also requires a major commitment on your part to ensure a healthy, long lasting partnership between you and your new best friend.

It’s very likely that just about all puppies have chased their tails at some point. For a puppy, chasing his tail is as common as a child spinning in circles. Puppies seem to become aware that they have tails and, therefore, they are something to try to catch. Who hasn’t had a laugh at a puppy spinning around trying to catch his own tail?

Many dogs continue this behavior as they get older. It’s a playful behavior and dogs seem to enjoy it. Of course, it may also be a sign that your dog is bored and is looking for some way to entertain himself. If the behavior bothers you, try to provide your puppy or dog with lots of fun toys and safe things to chew on so he will have some other options.

It’s possible that some dogs continue to chase their tails after they are adults because it amuses their owners. They have learned that chasing their tail gets them attention and causes their owners to laugh and give them affection, so they chase their tails to get this positive attention. If you don’t want your dog to chase his tail it’s not necessary to punish your dog or to be harsh with him. Simply stop giving him the positive feedback. Stop laughing at his antics. Encourage him to do something else. Play with him with some toys, for instance. Throw a ball for him. Play frisbee with him.

Some dogs may chase their tail if there is some kind of physical problem concerning their tail. In these cases it only looks the same as a dog who is chasing his tail for fun. For example, your dog may have a flea bite at the base of his tail and it may be driving him crazy. He may spin, trying to reach the place that’s itching, but he can’t reach it. So, it looks like he’s chasing his tail. You can help your dog by checking to see what’s bothering him. This kind of spinning and chasing actually does look different from tail chasing. With tail-chasing a dog is trying to catch the tip of his tail (usually). When there is a physical problem a dog is often trying to reach the base of his tail or his body. Try to notice the difference and see what’s bothering your dog so you can help him.

Impacted anal sacs or problems with worms can also cause dogs to chase their tails.

Tail-chasing can also occur after physical trauma, surgery or illness. Bull Terriers and German Shepherds seem to be more prone to tail-chasing than other breeds.

In some cases, tail-chasing can become a compulsion as in an obsessive compulsive behavior. There is some evidence to suggest that this OCD tail-chasing behavior may be linked to high cholesterol in the diet.

Dogs with anxiety problems may also engage in compulsive tail-chasing. About two percent of the canine population is estimated to have canine compulsive disorder.

If your dog does develop this compulsive tail-chasing behavior you will need to talk to your veterinarian. He may recommend drug therapy for the problem. The most common treatment is Prozac for dogs. You will also need to work with your dog on behavior modification. In case you think this is extreme, dogs who chase their tails compulsively may do so for hours a day, so it really is necessary to help them.

Tristan Andrews is a freelance author who writes about dog information and dog training.

There is still some disagreement about whether or not crate training dogs is the right way to go. Crating a dog involves keeping them in a cage just slightly larger than themselves, usually a plastic or metal one for a time, either at night or during the day.

Those in favor of crate training argue that crating a dog gives is a safe, secure place where the dog can go when it wants to get away from noise or activity and be surrounded by the familiar. A sort of home within a home, proponents call it. These same people insist that crate training makes the process of housebreaking a dog easier, since animals are loathe to soil the place where they lay down and will naturally learn to wait until taken outside to take care of their needs.

There are of course crate training detractors as well. Their view is that restricting a dog’s movement by keeping it in a cage which offers barely enough room to turn around robs dogs of the opportunity to act on their natural inclination to roam and explore its surroundings.

The no-crating crowd point to those instances where puppies will go ahead and soil themselves while in the crate, despite the arguments made by the proponents of crate training. They make the argument that crate training is really more about the owner’s convenience than it is the best interests of their pet.

Pet owners from both schools of thought of course have the best intentions and want to take good care of their pets. The research which has been done on crate training has given dog owners no certain answer one way or the other, but there is broad agreement that when done properly, crate training has little if any ill effects and can be of some benefit to the dog.

Of course, common sense has to be exercised. Keeping your pet in a cage for many hours on end is not healthy for your dog. Four hours is the maximum length of time you should crate your dog. Keeping your dog cooped up longer than this is a serious strain on their ability to hold back from eliminating and of course, most dogs are far too active to be happy sitting still for this long.

Care also needs to be taken to prevent injury to your dog while in the crate. The cage should be examined to make sure that there are no sharp edges or anywhere that your dog’s collar can snag on the crate. Any cage you keep your dog in should be sturdy enough that it won’t tip or break even under vigorous jostling.

There is one benefit to crate training which bears mentioning here. Pets that have been crate trained tend to have far fewer problems with travel. They’ll be used to staying in a small space and they’ll also have familiar smells when in their crate which goes a long way towards keeping them comfortable during the somewhat stressful experience of travel.

Another school of thought holds that pets should be left at home while their owners travel anyway. However, if it is necessary to travel with your pet, use a well built crate which prevents any foreign objects getting in, as well as falling out.

There’s not going to be an agreement on crate training in the near future; that much is certain. It’s best to decide for yourself. Try crating your dog for a couple of weeks, followed by leaving the door of the crate open and let your dog vote with their feet. Do they steer clear of the crate or do they choose it as a favored spot for their naps? Let your dog have a say and you’ll have a happier pet.